Matador contributing editor Paul Sullivan leads us through the medina and souks of Marrakech, then out into the surrounding landscape.
alt=”Woman in Medina”/> 1. Marrakech is one of Morocco’s oldest and most alluring cities. Despite the constant influx of tourists, the city has maintained an exotic Old World atmosphere — particularly within the ancient medina, where map-toting tourists attempt to navigate the labyrinthine streets and locals go about their daily business as they’ve been doing for centuries.
alt=”Horse and Cart”/> 2. Bikes and cars are common in Marrakech (prepare for a fair bit of pollution) but the donkey is still a ubiquitous form of transport, especially in the dusty medina where it’s used to pull heavy loads through the notoriously narrow streets.
alt=”Kids Medina”/> 3. Another common sight in the medina are…kids! The family unit is cherished by Moroccans and the streets also serve as a children’s playground, often for boisterous games of soccer such as this.
alt=”Veg Vendor”/> 4. A large part of Marrakech’s exoticism are the abundance of old traditions and customs that are kept alive. Here a vendor sells groceries direct from a handcart.
alt=”Weaver”/> 5. Traditional artisan skills such as weaving, metalwork, pottery, bread baking, and carpentry are all very much alive in Marrakech. In fact the medina has its own “artisan quarter” where you can watch these craftsmen at work.
alt=”Horse and Cart”/> 6. Morocco is a Muslim country. Several times a day the familiar sound of the muezzin (call to prayer) sails through the air and devotees swarm to the many mosques (sitting outside if they’re full), or simply kneel and bow their heads towards Mecca wherever they happen to be.
alt=”Souk Seller”/> 7. A trip to Marrakech is not complete without a visit to the souks. This intimate warren of pathways is comprised of shops often no taller and wider than the people inside them, who hawk everything from silverware to oriental carpets, pointy ‘baboush’ (slippers), replica designer handbags, and love potions. Be prepared for lots of haggling — Monty Python style.
alt=”Souk Shadows”/> 8. The souks are intensely atmospheric. Packed tight with locals and tourists, they’re a whirlwind of motion, smells (good and bad), and patchwork roofs that create compelling chiaroscuros when the sunlight filters through.
alt=”Ben Yousef Medersa”/> 9. Though Marrakech doesn’t hold an abundance of cultural highlights compared to other cities, there are several places well worth visiting. One is the beautiful Ben Youssef Medersa — the city’s oldest Koranic school — which was closed down in the ’60s but refurbished and reopened to the public in the ’80s.
alt=”BBQ Time”/> 10. During the day, Marrakech’s main square, the Djemaa El Fna, is a busy and fairly modern hub for shoppers, traders, and tourist touts (snake charmers, water bearers, acrobatic dancers). Come nighttime the place transforms into the largest open-air barbecue in the world, as the air fills with smoke and locals and visitors sit next to each other to chow down on everything from harira soup to seafood.
alt=”Berber w/ Camels”/> 11. Sometimes the heat and hassle of the Pink City can get too much. Fortunately, there are a number of easy and accessible escape routes. One of the most popular trips is up to the Atlas Mountains, just an hour or two’s drive from Marrakech. The cool peaks provide beautiful respite from the chaos of the medina, and are full of Berber villages and superb walking routes.
alt=”Cow’s Head”/> 12. And if you thought life in the city was authentic and traditional — life in the mountains is often more so.
alt=”Onion Peeler”/> 13. Non meat-eaters needn’t worry, though — even mountainside cafes have access to vegetables.
alt=”Essaouira”/> 14. Another possible day trip from the city is to Essaouira, a small, charming fishing town on the coast. It has good tourist infrastructure, and its distinctive white and blue medina is today a UNESCO heritage site. The seafood here, as you’d expect, is especially tasty.
alt=”Berber Woman”/> 15. Those looking for a more dramatic adventure can book a safari out to the Sahara. It’s possible to spend the night (or more) in traditional bivouac tents, climb sand dunes, and drive around marveling at the vast expanse of sand and nothingness. Now and again the barren landscape is punctuated by nomadic shepherds like this hardy Berber lady.
alt=”Berber Children”/> 16. We also came across these Berber children, who were happy to receive our gifts of jewellery and biscuits in exchange for a photograph. They didn’t pause too long given the encroaching rainstorm.
Community Connection
For more of Paul’s photography, visit his website, or check out the following:
Photo Essay: Iceland’s Fire and Ice
Photo Essay: Boi Bumbá – The Beat of the Amazon
Photo Essay: An Amazon Adventure
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